How Do You Clean A Matte Finish Shotgun
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25th Jan 2011,12:26 #1
Maintaining a Black Matte Finish
From what I've been reading, guns with a Matte Black terminate seem to bear witness signs of wear if y'all look at them wrong. Does anyone have whatsoever suggestions? I bought Hoppe's solvent and Hoppe's lube, but I don't know if this is enough. Whatever help would be appreciated.
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25th January 2011,19:xi #2
Lots of experts on this site will weigh in; it's a great identify to learn. You didn't mention what type of finish - matte black covers a lot of ground. Nighthawk's "Diamond Black" is fairly resistant to everything from reports - I'll know when I get my T3! Standard "ceramic" finishes can range from adequately durable to fairly soft; my Wilsons all take matte blackness and their version seems to be pretty tough, although my guns definitely get used; very modest wear effectually checkering and cage from holstering. My one Kimber with a matte black slide showed wearable adequately early, simply doesn't seem to accept any increased trend to rust. "Parkerized" finishes are also durable, and there are some new ion coatings and modern "gee-whiz" finishes that others may annotate on. I've gone almost exclusively to Ballistol for wiping downward the exterior of my guns, and fifty-fifty after-range cleaning; I have a few nickel finished SAAs, and information technology's only easier non to take to retrieve not to pick up the Hoppe'due south. Ballistol is as well safe with (and actually protects) leather, forest, plastic and ivory, and seems to do a decent chore of cleaning. I mostly lube with Wilson products, oil and grease. The only thing you lot actually need to protect a good finish is a light wipe downwards with your pick of gun oil (Non WD-40!), low humidity for storage, and not handling and putting away with acidic fingerprints on the stop. Some folks employ wax, and I've used Renaissance Wax (a good production for preserving and protecting almost anything) on firearms and grips, merely always end upward getting oil on the outside so I just skip the waxing now.
And gentlemen in England now a-bed shall think themselves accursed they were not here, and hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks that fought with us upon Saint Crispin'south solar day.
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25th January 2011,19:29 #3
Cheers for the thorough response. I don't know exactly what type of finish I accept on my Kimber Pro Bear II, but like you said, information technology has a tendency to show signs of wear easily. Mine doesn't have any wear however, because I but bought it last week. I but desire to make sure the finish stay this mode.
Originally Posted past Proconsul Lots of experts on this site volition weigh in; it'southward a dandy place to learn. You didn't mention what type of finish - matte black covers a lot of ground. Nighthawk's "Diamond Blackness" is fairly resistant to everything from reports - I'll know when I get my T3! Standard "ceramic" finishes tin range from adequately durable to fairly soft; my Wilsons all have matte black and their version seems to be pretty tough, although my guns definitely get used; very minor wear around checkering and cage from holstering. My one Kimber with a matte black slide showed wearable adequately early, but doesn't seem to have any increased trend to rust. "Parkerized" finishes are as well durable, and at that place are some new ion coatings and modern "gee-whiz" finishes that others may comment on. I've gone about exclusively to Ballistol for wiping down the exterior of my guns, and even after-range cleaning; I have a few nickel finished SAAs, and it's just easier not to have to remember non to pick upwards the Hoppe'southward. Ballistol is as well safety with (and really protects) leather, wood, plastic and ivory, and seems to practise a decent task of cleaning. I generally lube with Wilson products, oil and grease. The merely thing you really need to protect a good finish is a lite wipe down with your option of gun oil (NOT WD-forty!), depression humidity for storage, and not handling and putting away with acidic fingerprints on the cease. Some folks use wax, and I've used Renaissance Wax (a good product for preserving and protecting nigh anything) on firearms and grips, but always end up getting oil on the outside so I only skip the waxing now.
Here's what I do after EVERY fourth dimension I shoot (fifty-fifty if it's only 50 rounds): I use Hoppe's solvent on the exterior and interior. Then I use Hoppe'due south Lube on both the exterior and interior. And then I have a Hoppe's silicone rag and wipe the exterior down (I also do this last step after handling the gun to ensure there are not fingerprints).
Practice y'all think this volition suffice? Should I do whatever type of cleaning/maintenance before I shoot or only after?
And sad, I take 1 last question. I was at a gun shop today, and the clerk said not to fifty-fifty employ lube on the exterior of the gun, only instead but wipe it down with the silicone rag. What do you think of this advice?
Final edited past Whattoget; 25th January 2011 at 19:35.
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25th Jan 2011,nineteen:52 #4
Some here would say y'all clean too much, just I'm pretty OCD most my guns as well!
I clean and lube later every range trip, and I have guns I've owned more than 40 years that expect like new; I might wait 'till the adjacent mean solar day, only definitely cleaned between trips. My conduct guns get special attention, every unmarried fourth dimension I utilise them. Some competitive shooters might clean their guns on their birthday, if then. The main thing is not to overscrub the bore with something bad, similar say, a stainless steel brush. My experience is that silicone wipes ultimately don't provide very much in the way of rust protection; great for wiping off fingerprints. Too much lube tin attract dust, but my handguns all get a wipedown with Ballistol before going in the rubber. Again, wax is less messy and some say just as protective. I've never seen a gun worn beyond recognition past wiping it off with an oily rag. JMHO And gentlemen in England now a-bed shall remember themselves accursed they were not here, and hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks that fought with usa upon Saint Crispin's 24-hour interval.
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25th January 2011,20:27 #5
Tin you harm the gun by cleaning besides often? Or are you only saying that it might be unnecessary? Originally Posted by Proconsul Some here would say you make clean too much, only I'one thousand pretty OCD about my guns as well!
I clean and lube later every range trip, and I have guns I've owned more 40 years that look like new; I might wait 'till the next twenty-four hours, but definitely cleaned betwixt trips. My behave guns go special attending, every single time I use them. Some competitive shooters might clean their guns on their birthday, if and so. The master thing is not to overscrub the bore with something bad, similar say, a stainless steel brush. My experience is that silicone wipes ultimately don't provide very much in the mode of rust protection; dandy for wiping off fingerprints. Too much lube can attract grit, only my handguns all get a wipedown with Ballistol before going in the condom. Again, wax is less messy and some say simply as protective. I've never seen a gun worn beyond recognition past wiping it off with an oily rag. JMHOYou mentioned that overscrubbing with something like a stainless steel castor is harmful. I recently picked up a Benchrest Castor (PHOS. Bronze Bristles Brass Brush). Do you call up think this ok?
I was actually surprised when I was told to just employ the silicone rag for the exterior of the slide. Other than OCDers similar ourselves, do yous recall almost in this forum would say information technology's a good idea to lightly lube the exterior slide?
This is my first pistol and I was expecting it to require less maintenance than my shotguns, but I'm slowly learning otherwise.
Thanks for helping a newb!
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26th January 2011,18:45 #six
Many serious competition and benchrest shooters would never put annihilation through the bore harder than a patch, if that. Using a stainless steel brush in the bore is a definite no-no, although some apply equally a sleeping room castor for serious fouling. I generally use a nylon brush on my 1911s, with an occasional pass with a bronze brush or bore-serpent. I never shoot anything simply jacketed rounds in my semi-autos though; for lead bullets I might utilise bronze more than frequently, and on my SAAs I use bronze routinely. Only depends on how dirty your bore gets or fouled with copper. Again, many shooters clean minimally, but yous can't really harm a bore with a nylon brush. More than important is not to ding the cage with anything that would scratch or dent the grooves/lands. You lot don't want the exiting bullet to become more of a button on one side or the other. When cleaning from the muzzle, I always utilise a guide, and all of my 1911s can be cleaned from the chamber end. A handgun actually shouldn't need very much maintenance except regular cleaning/lubing and a light wipe on the exterior with a lightly oiled cloth. Your Kimber has an anodized aluminum frame and really doesn't need any protection on the surface to preclude rust; just wipe off the pulverization residue! Kimber barrels are some other kettle o' fish, and (IMO) tend to pit and rust more oft than others, even though listed as "stainless", so would definitely keep it oiled up.
And gentlemen in England at present a-bed shall think themselves accursed they were not here, and hold their manhoods cheap whiles any speaks that fought with us upon Saint Crispin's day.
Last edited past Proconsul; 26th January 2011 at 20:46.
Source: https://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?90258-Maintaining-a-Black-Matte-Finish
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